There are many rewarding things associated with being an aquarist.  One of them is developing a greater respect for the complexity of natural controls put in place to manage the outdoor biome.

The outdoors is repleat with aquatic checks and balances from the most elemental involving biochemistry and mechanical filtration to the complex where plants and animals work seamlessly in orchestrated symbiosis.  Water moves throughout our world weaving in and through all living matter.  It is present everywhere on the planet in one form or another.

The versatility of water is unmatched in its’ affect on our lives.  We breath it, ingest it, expel it, bath in it, swim in it, grow plants with it, generate power with it, float on it, and yes, we put it in aquariums to watch animals in it.

The ability of water to carry dissolved gases and other nutrients makes it a perfect medium to support animals designed to move through it and exist in it as a biome.  The beauty and variety of creatures found in water intrigues us and creates a desire to observe them and enjoy their complexities.

To create an environment that can be viewed and enjoyed we developed the aquarium to contain a small number of creatures in a biome conducive to maintaining their aquatic lives and thereby enriching our own.  Having taken on the responsibility of an aquatic biome we not only brought in different species of aquatic life, but unknowingly fostered a nutrient imbalance in the biome that could potentially be toxic to the occupants of the aquarium.

The imbalance was biologic waste.  In the large natural outdoor biome there are mechanisms in place to manage the waste products of living organisms.  The biochemical, bacterial, and fauna species are perfectly balanced to manage waste products.  The checks and balances of the biome work seamlessly in a symbiotic manner to maintain a healthy environment.

Carving out a small portion of the outdoor biome and placing it in an aquarium changes the proportions of controls available to manage biological waste.  As a result almost all aquariums suffer from degrading water quality and require water exchanges to maintain acceptable water quality.

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Algae is a name given to a variety of plants and bacteria that are commonly found in water.  Unlike the bacteria [Cyanobacteria] which is commonly referred to as blue-green algae, all algae are plants.

Algae are diverse, photosynthetic organisms belonging to the group of non-flowering plants called protists.  They range in size from microscopic single-celled organisms to large multicellular forms.

As photosynthetic organisms the group shares some common characteristics.  The primary characteristic shared by all algae is photosynthesis.  They use the building blocks of carbon dioxide, water, soluble nutrients, and sunlight to produce energy rich compounds.  They contain chlorophyll and other pigments that give them a range of colors to include: green, red, brown, and all in various shades.

Algae are found in all aquatic environments to include damp soils and rocks.  They can form free-floating microscopic cells, thread-like filaments, or large visable mats or blooms.

They have diverse life cycles and reproductive strategies.  Algae can reproduce through cell division or fragmentation.  They can also reproduce sexually through the fusion of gametes.  Some algae can produce spores or cysts that enable them to survive in highly unfavorable conditions.

Algae sometimes gets a bad reputation due to its’ prolific growth abilities.  Algae is the primary oxygen producer on earth.  They contribute significantly to global oxygen production because of photosynthesis.  It also is a food source for varied organisms like small invertebrates, fish, and other larger marine animals.

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The bio availability of algae make it almost impossible to have a body of water without some algal content.  Consequently, when establishing an aquarium, management of algae should be taken into consideration.

Fortunately there is a wide body of knowledge on the topic of plants and their care and feeding.  Understanding the optimal habitat for algae varieties will provide the necessary information to manage algal growth in the aquarium.

There is sound logic behind the idea of taking things slowly when establishing a new aquarium.

Planning ahead will have enormous benefit once the aquarium is up and running.  Start by deciding on the decor placement.  Be certain to provide sufficient space around the decor items to allow unimpeded water flow, and space for a tank vacuum attachment to reach to the bottom gravel bed.

As time moves on your aquarium occupants will be releasing particulate matter that will settle to the gravel bed creating a nutrient rich environment for algae to proliferate.

Periodic vacuuming of the gravel will remove much of the material and help to limit algae growth.

Before any occupants are introduced to the new aquarium let the water stabilize in terms of pH and other dissolved gases.  Keeping the water at a constant pH will reduce the sudden algal bloom that sometimes occurs.  The water movement equipment (filter, power head, etc) will circulate and even out any pH variations.

Keep in mind that the larger the aquarium the easier it will be to maintain a constant pH.  The buffering effect of the aquarium water should handle any sudden changes.  pH will be one of the indicators that water exchange is necessary.  All added aquarium decor items cause pH changes initially.  The rocks and gravel will have an effect on the water pH.  Let the decor items sit in the tank for a week or longer to allow for any dissolved minerals to leach out.  Check the pH of the water and adjust the pH if necessary using a pH buffering product.

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When the aquarium water is ready and there are no variations in pH, it’s time to add occupants and plants.  Keep in mind that the introduction of plants will have brought algae cells into the aquarium.

Check the pH of the water in a week or so and keep adding occupants as you see fit.  Eventually the water pH will begin to rise above 7.0.  The rate of rise will be a function of the number of occupants in the aquarium, the amount of excess food in the water after feeding, and the amount of time since the last water exchange.

The pH is a measure of acidity and a marker for nutrient levels in the water.

There are a few methods that will work to mitigate algae buildup in the aquarium.  None of these methods are completely successful.  Combined they will reduce the amount of work needed to  control algae.

1. Light: keep light to between 10-12 hours daily.  Depending on the plants and other occupants in the aquarium this amount of light should suffice.  Longer periods of light will encourage algae growth.
2. pH: keep pH levels within 0.25 of pH 7.0.  So, 6.75 – 7.25 should be your target pH level when testing.  Different algae flourish at higher and lower pH levels. Air bubbles will liberate CO2 from the water and reduce acidity.  Try an aeration stone to cause CO2 to liberate from the water.
3. Perform a water exchange of not more than 33% of the aquarium volume.  Removal of water will reduce the overall nutrient content of the aquarium, remove suspended algae in the water, and change the pH level of the aquarium.  All of these will help to inhibit algal growth.
4. Consider introducing an algae eater to your aquarium occupants.  The plecostomus is a non-aggressive fish that just loves to eat algae.  They come in a variety of colors and shapes to compliment your aquarium.
5. Use an algae sponge or scraper to remove excessive buildup on the aquarium walls.

Managing algae is a never-ending activity if you are an aquarist.  Many aquarists set up a schedule to perform water exchanges as opposed to performing an exchange only as needed.  Having a schedule is more effective at algae control.

Using natural controls for algae can be interesting and fun to watch.  Using the pleco is a good start.  Do some research to find other aquarium occupants that will remove algae, particularly algae that is difficult to reach.