As with any new endeavor, there is lots to learn at first.  Setting up an aquarium is no different.  In this article we will explore the items you will need to get started and the decisions you will need to make initially.

Having an aquarium bestows upon you the coveted title of aquarist.  You will be among a group of people who are willing to step out of a routine day-to-day existence and into one filled with challenges, learning, disappointment, and extreme enjoyment sprinkled with new found confidence.

Aquarists all share the inner drive to identify and solve problems.  They are a breed of entrepreneur who doesn’t cower when faced with a challenge.  Rather, they dive in and understand the nature of a problem and what can be done to resolve it.  The aquarist possesses a creative intellect that drives them internally to harness and perpetuate beauty in form and function.

The processes of selecting a biome, an aquarium, a stand, and the decor are not particularly difficult, but they are time consuming.  When just starting, the process will seem overwhelming.  The best advice is to stay the course and absorb as much information as possible as you research what you are going to acquire. Everything you read and whatever notes you make are additive and form the basis of your aquarist knowledge.

To give you a jump start we have assembled a grass-roots list of equipment and have provided a few links to provide more in-depth discussions relating to aquariums.

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The best place to start with a new aquarium and a budding aquarist is to choose between saltwater or freshwater for your tank.  The overwhelming advice from seasoned aquarists is to go with freshwater as your aquarium biome.

Saltwater aquariums are without question more colorful, but they come with significantly greater amounts of work.

A saltwater aquarium is something you graduate into after having proven your abilities in a freshwater aquarium.

The next big decision is size.  Smaller aquariums are more fragile in terms of water chemistry.  The smaller aquarium will have more rapid changes to pH and dissolved ammonia than a larger aquarium.  For a new aquarist an aquarium size of between 30-40 gallons will provide sufficient buffering for water chemistry so that it doesn’t feel like all you do is water exchanges.  it will be more enjoyable with a larger aquarium than with a smaller one.

The shape and dimensions are a personal choice.  It is recommended that a new aquarist not get an oddly shaped aquarium that is unusually tall or deep.  Stay with a more traditional size that you are able to reach the bottom for cleaning.

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Often a base for the aquarium is available where you purchase the aquarium.  Keep in mind that a 40 gallon tank will weigh about 30 lbs empty and 360 lbs with water.  A base should be constructed of an inner steel frame to support 360 lbs.  A base that is constructed of particle board or other manufactured wood product should be avoided.

There are designs made from wood that are safe to use.  If a wood base is desired look for a post and beam inner construction.  This type of construction uses the compression strength of wood (very strong) with a cross beam system on top (also very strong). This type of construction is very durable and will handle 360 lbs.

For a top that resides directly under the aquarium look for a material that is not affected by water.  A Formica covered product is not recommended since it is usually a constructed wood product.  A stone or manufactured resin product is a good choice and is not affected by water.

There are two approaches to purchasing aquarium supplies.  The first is to purchase everything at once, the second is to purchase supplies over time.

Both are valid approaches, but is seems that purchasing over time may be a better method to acquire your aquarium equipment.

Whichever method you select there are a few items that have to be acquired along with the aquarium at the outset.  Other items can be deferred.

Items that you need at the outset:

• Aquarium with a top/hood
• Decor like rocks, bottom gravel, plants
• Water filtration and aeration system
• Immersion heater and thermometer
• Lighting
• Aquarium stand
• Test kits for: pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Chlorine/Chloramine
• Water conditioning chemicals for pH and Chlorine/Chloramine

This will get you started until it’s time to get a few occupants.  Then you will need additional items:

• Fish net (mid size)
• Tetra balanced fish food
• Notebook to track water quality and fish appearance

Once the occupants have been in the tank for a few weeks the water may begin to change in pH and ammonia or nitrite levels.  This will require a water exchange.  When performing a water exchange only 30% of the water is removed from the aquarium.  It is suggested that a water vacuum be used to siphon out particulates in the floor gravel as 30% of the water is siphoned into buckets.

The following items will need to be acquired:

• Water vacuum
• Additional pvc hose
• 5 gallon pail

Along the way other items may be of interest and acquired.  This is the fun of owning an aquarium.  There are always items of interest that may or may not assist in your efforts to care for an aquarium.

All aquariums develop algae as they mature.  It may be helpful to acquire an algae scrubber at some point.  Or you can acquire a new aquarium occupant to eat your algae like an algae eater (there are several).

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The aquarium is now running and the water is being filtered and aerated.   Any dissolved gases are percolating out of the water now that it is no longer under pressure.  However, there will remain other contaminants that will not percolate out.  These contaminants are best removed with an active charcoal filter.

Active charcoal has the unique ability to attract a wide variety of chemical compounds and have them bind to the surface of the filter medium.  For this reason it is recommended  that whenever a water exchange is made that an active charcoal filter be used to remove water soluble compounds.

Some aquarists go through the process of testing water before it is added to the aquarium and then adjust the pH and remove chlorine/chloramine.  Others just add the fresh water and adjust as needed in the aquarium.  Both procedures are successful, just select one you are comfortable with and proceed from there.

If you discover algae buildup on the sides of the aquarium or in the filter go ahead and alter the photoperiod for your tank by reducing the number of hours lights are on.